Wood Ranch BBQ and Grill

Wood Ranch BBQ and Grill
2785 Lakeshore Drive
Corona, CA 92883
951-667-4200

When I think of a barbeque restaurant, it is difficult not to picture horseshoes on the walls, sawdust on the floor and perhaps a stuffed boar’s head staring down at me from above the big-screen TV that looms over the dinning hall full of picnic benches with checkered tablecloths and the Plexiglas cover that slides around when you accidentally bump it. All the food comes in baskets, they only sell beer to drink and Hank Williams is on a loop. We’ve all been to places like that, and that’s not saying the food isn’t outstanding—it almost always is, which is why they can get away with having so much, er… charm—but the point is that it is predictable, a stereotype for barbeque joints that doesn’t properly prepare us for when we visit places like Wood Ranch.

Of all the pads created around Dos Lagos, Wood Ranch lucked out and grabbed the best one, right on the lake with views of the waterfall. So far, no other establishment at the development is offered such vistas, and if you’re there when the sun goes down and they seat you in the back by the veranda—which I was—then it only adds to the ambiance of the experience. Wood Ranch’s décor borders on something you’d find in a fine restaurant in a posh neighborhood: Subdued lighting, dark woods, stone, glass and amber hues create a relaxed environment without being snobbish, and the arrangement of the booths and tables is varied enough to give most parties a sense of seclusion. However, if they’ve got the fire going, I’d suggest sitting on the veranda outside, if for nothing but the views of the lakes.

Wood Ranch BBQ and Grill began in 1992 as a dream of two college roommates tired of working 100-weeks for other people, always feeling that they could run a better restaurant. After going their separate ways after graduations, Eric Anders and Ofer Shemtov reunited and revived their dream. Wood Ranch BBQ and Grill was born and the first location was in Moorpark. Since then, they’ve added 11 more locations, the last one being a new restaurant in Los Angeles, which opened last May. At the Corona branch, they employ roughly 85 people during the dinner shift and it is managed by Brandy Vanderbeck and Ricky Rufatt, and duties in the kitchen are overseen by head chef Ruben Pichilingdue.

The first plates to arrive at my table were two of their most popular appetizers: Famous Shredded Onions and the spinach and artichoke dips. The shredded onions were thinly sliced onions with a light seasoning of salts and garlic, and although well recommended, I would have preferred much more garlic to give them the zing that they needed. The spinach and artichoke dip was creamy as well as flavorful, perhaps on account of their use of fresh ingredients. And as I would come to find out, the portions at Wood Ranch exceed expectations.

Right when the salad made its entrance, they also brought one of their signature drinks, a raspberry mojito, a surprisingly refreshing martini-like drink made with Cruzan raspberry rum, which would have been perfect if it was about 30 degrees warmer outside. The salad wasn’t the sort of salad I would have expected—the BBQ chopped salad with chicken and tri-tip—and believe me when I say that you could order this salad and not worry about the main course. It featured everything you’d think a salad should be, including a few additions, like corn for instance, that would be right at home on the back of a chuck wagon, but the real treat was the chicken and tri-tip (you can have one or the other…or both). These two meats, juicy, hearty and bursting with Wood Ranch’s proprietary barbeque sauce, were plenty to fulfill any barbeque coinsurer.

The main dish was the Wood Ranch BBQ combo, which consisted of baby back ribs and tri-tip along the same lines as what was in the salad. Side dishes were macaroni and cheese and coleslaw (strangely enough with peanuts). The ribs didn’t fall off the bone when I touched them, as much as stereotypical barbeque joints suggest that they should, and I’m glad they didn’t. Half the fun of eating ribs is…well, eating ribs: you pick them up and chomp away, which is why they provide extra napkins and those lemon-scented wet napkins when you order the ribs. The tri-tip was a revisit of the salad, only this time they were in their own element, smothered the with extra sauce that would have surely ruined the taste of the salad. It was the sort of meat that instantly fills your mouth with spices and flavors no matter how small of a bite you take. It was prepared medium well, with just enough char to give it a smoky zest.

I wasn’t entirely impressed with the coleslaw, though it is only fair to mention that I have never been impressed with any coleslaw I’ve ever eaten, as it always seems like a salad that is trying to hard. However, the addition of the peanuts gave it a traditional Peruvian (okay, and Indonesian) feel to an otherwise European dish (hey, the Romans were Europeans). On the other hand, I can’t imagine anyone passing up the macaroni and cheese, and after one bite, it reminded me of my childhood, which is why, I guess, macaroni and cheese tops the list of comfort foods right after, say, meat loaf (though nobody will admit liking it). When I return with my kids, they’ll probably lick the plates clean and ask for more.

The Oreo Cookie Crunch isn’t exactly how it sounds. For starters, it didn’t crunch much, as Oreos lose their crunch ability as soon as they’re pulverized into a fine granular toping and added to a mound of ice cream. But, I’m not going to split hairs here, as it was the finest use of the Oreo cookie I have ever tasted. It comes to the table looking very much like Morro Rock, a rotund heap of Oreo cookie-encrusted ice cream completely surrounded by a sea of melted chocolate. You’ll forget your own name after the first bite, and by the third, you’ll need resuscitation. If you order nothing else at Wood Ranch, get this… get two, one more for the ride home.

After that, nothing could compare. I tried really hard to judge the Mom’s Deep-Dish Cobbler on its own level. Hot apples, flaky and crisp crumbled crust served in a tall-sided ramekin: It would have been perfect after that meat loaf and macaroni and cheese I mentioned above, but I couldn’t get over feeling that I was driving a Volkswagen just after getting out of a Ferrari. I took it home with me, and after given my body time to recoup, I gave it another shot. This time, the cinnamon on the apples and the semi-sweet-slathered apples came shining through. My advice is don’t get both.

The evening was finished off by a tall vodka cappuccino, and I had trouble finishing it. It wasn’t because of the drink, as it was well made, frothy with a warming bite from both the espresso and vodka (which is always subdued in a coffee drink, for those looking to better hide your winter alcoholism). I was unable to finish it because I was quite full from the previous dishes, but mostly because I had worked my way through college in an espresso bar. So the very sight of any coffee-based drink brings back horrible associations attributed to the espresso bean and my constant exposure to its smell, something I am completely desensitized to. I imagine this runs along the lines as slaughterhouses producing vegetarians; they just lose the taste for meat in the same why I have for coffee.

Overall, there is something for everyone at Wood Ranch. The staff is very amicable and accommodating. However, excellence comes with a price, as this isn’t an inexpensive place you’d take a Little League team after winning the big game (though they’d kill for the mac and cheese, no doubt). The prices are fair for the quality, the ambiance and the experience of a fine restaurant in Corona, and if you’re trying to impress a first date, you can’t do any better.

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Ra Sushi

Ra Sushi
2785 Cabot Drive
Corona, CA 92883
951-277-7491

There’s a funny stigma that comes with sushi, a epicurean obstacle that bars most of us from considering it when they look for a place to eat on any given weekend, and its not that those that eat sushi on a regular basis are any more sophisticated than the rest of us; it’s just that we’re the ignorant masses, uneducated in the ways of this very ancient Japanese cuisine. After all, it’s raw fish, dredged up from the ocean, rinsed off a little and wrapped in seaweed or dipped in that deceptively non-palatable tongue-burner, wasabi.

Generally, people are hesitant, almost cautious, to give sushi a try for a number of reasons: It’s usually expensive; the portions are normally small; the establishment is probably exclusive, highbrow even; the server snobby to the uninformed; and plus, they heard that it could kill you. That doesn’t make for an inviting evening out, does it?

Well, for the most part, it’s all true. Sushi isn’t the cheapest fare in town. The portions are usually on the smaller side, only because it hosts a variety of flavors, more so than, say, a hamburger. Some can be exclusive and snobby (which comes along with being pricy). And yes, there is a form of sushi that, when prepared incorrectly, could very well be your last meal [it’s the blowfish (fugu) sashimi, which contains a toxin 1,250 times deadlier than cyanide].

But, let’s consider that all sushi places are not created equal.

So, where do the rest of us go? You know, the ones that think they might enjoy sushi, but know less than nothing about it? Where can we go? Probably most anywhere if you’re willing to ask questions, listen to the answers and put down your guard long enough to try new things, but in Corona, sushi restaurants were a little hard to come by until RA Sushi (pronounced “raw sushi”—it’s a funny play on phonetics. Get it?) opened their doors just over a year ago.

A sushi bar is the Japanese equivalent of the English pub, and the best way to experience the food is along with the atmosphere that traditionally accompanies it (however, the best way to experience English food is to watch someone else eat it). RA Sushi provides the atmosphere, the ambiance and the environment to properly enjoy any of the dishes they offer (don’t worry, they have cooked fish too).

Given the choice, we recommend that you sit at a sushi bar, because from that vantage point, you can watch the chef (itamae-san) prepare any of the sushi assortments and pick and choose which ones look most appetizing. Plus, a newbie to sushi can ask the chef for advice and recommendations about anything they see. An added bonus for sitting at the bar is that it is best to place or order many small dishes rather than one large order at the beginning. This will ensure continued interaction with the chef, not to mention your trying a variety of things.

That aside, you don’t need to be a sushi expert to enjoy what RA Sushi has to offer. I met Jason Boske, the general manager of the Corona store and was happy that he had the perfect lineup of sushi assortments for me right when I first sat down. Transplanted from Connecticut, Jason, a veteran of radio, came to California nearly a couple of years ago to pursue a career in the recording industry, but fate landed him in the capable hands of RA Sushi. And he hasn’t looked back.

Started by Scott Kilpatrick, Rich Howland and Tai Obata, RA Sushi began serving sushi fans in Scottsdale, Arizona, in 1997. They expanded to a few more locations, but in 2002 they were bought by Benihana, in order for them to market their traditional Japanese dishes by untraditional methods (Benihana would never play edgy alt rock). This leads to the theory behind RA Sushi, is that it is a high-energy atmosphere, but the menu’s creation is a combination of being serious about food and providing a young, hip scene. The Corona location (and there’s 14 different stores in five or six states), can seat around 150 people at any one time, from singles at the sushi bar to groups in the two large booths.

RA Sushi's dinner menu features Asian fusion dishes such as the apple teriyaki salmon, a marinated grilled filet topped with sautéed Fuji apple glaze, and served with wasabi mashed potatoes. Latin-Asian albacore, a seared albacore with avocado, cilantro, sautéed mixed nuts and sake garlic sauce. And green tea soba noodle salad, a chilled soba noodles tossed in a yuzu vinaigrette with wild mushrooms, seasoned tofu and vegetables.

I started with a Sea Monkey Martini, one of nine on their menu. It’s a raspberry martini made with Skyy berry vodka, raspberry, pineapple and cranberry juices, and because of the natural viscosity of the liquids involved, it layers on itself. That means that each sip is different from the last, starting with the smooth punch of the semi-sweetened vodka and ending with a cavity-inducing pineapple taste that is surprisingly refreshing.

A delicately embellished platter of appetizers arrived next, from their signature “RA”ckin shrimp and a scallop tempura, to the sugarcane shrimp and tunacado. The “RA”ckin Shrimp is a crispy rock shrimp served on a bed of mixed greens with a ginger teriyaki sauce to dip it in. It was full of flavor without being overpowering. The sauce was light and it well complimented the shrimp. The scallop tempura, a lightly battered calamari steak, also came with a tempura sauce, and was appropriate for the holidays, giving that it was served on a breaded slice of pumpkin. I wasn’t interested in the sugarcane shrimp when I first saw them, as they seemed merely like two shrimp dipped in barbecue sauce, but they ended up being the best on the plate, only because they had such a punchy flavor, sweet but not sugary.

Forget the fact that I am still completely inept at using chopsticks, I reverted to the “traditional” method of eating sushi, my fingers. Don’t worry, nobody was looking.

Which leads us to the next course. However, before that arrived, Jason delivered to my table their signature series sake, a 300mL bottle of sake made by the Yaegaki Corp. especially for RA Sushi. It came with a small shot glass sitting in a cedar box, and following tradition, you are supposed to pour some from the bottle into the glass, spilling it into the cedar box, signifying prosperity. After that, you have a choice to either drink it from the glass or from the cedar box. Because I love the smell of cedar, and since the taste of this type of sake is enhanced by the cedar, I had no problem drinking it out of a little wooden box.

First off of the sushi list for me was the Yellow Monkey Roll, which is roasted red peppers, marinated artichoke, and cream cheese all rolled in rice and seaweed, topped with mango and cashew nuts, and covered with an eel and mango sauce. I hate to come out of the gate with this, but it was my favorite of the four. The mango sauce is paired perfectly with it, and it tastes more like a piece of candy made with rice than anything else. The New Zealand Roll, a smoked salmon, cream cheese, and mango rolled in rice and seaweed, topped with scallops, kiwi, and sautéed pine and cashew nuts, also accompanied with an eel and mango sauce, lacked the flavor I was expecting. Though presentation is one thing—it looked great—I wanted to really feel like I was eating something unusual, instead of a ball of rice with a kiwi on top. The salmon and shrimp nigiri, those both were the epitome of sushi, as there was nothing on them to distract from the fact that I was eating raw fish, just salmon, just shrimp. I dipped them both in the wasabe (if there’s nothing I love better about Japanese cuisine it’s wasabe) and some ginger, and they were both wonderfully mild, almost soothing to eat. The crispy spicy tuna was exactly as I expected, but not crunchy. It was overpowered by the tomato-based topping and the cilantro (believe it or not).

After that, though there wasn’t much room left, but the main course was on its way. The Yuzu Halibut (on the “from the sea” portion of the menu) is a seared halibut braised in a creamy yuzu broth and served with spicy crispy rice, fresh shitake mushrooms and spinach. Though it seemed like a small portion when it arrived, I came to find out that the dish was quite deep, as the halibut was filling… once I got to it that is. It was buried so deep among the rice, the spinach and the mushrooms, that I had trouble mixing the various tastes together. However, there’s nothing better than properly prepared shitake mushrooms and something from the flounder family, and RA Sushi certainly did not disappoint me.

An added surprise was a raspberry mango sorbet drenched in sweet raspberry and mango
sauce, which arrived just before the espresso martini… a reminder back to when I worked in a coffee shop where a wink and a nod will get you a little something extra in your mocha cappuccino.

RA Sushi is a relief from the norm. It’s interior design is fancy without being pretentious, the staff was courteous and not stale and Jason was knowledgeable without conceit. My only complaint is lose the TV over the bar (which had on football); it distracts from the quiet ambiance and I could almost picture myself on Ginza in Tokyo, looking for a good sushi place.

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NYPD

NYPD
2279 Eagle Glen Parkway, #105
Corona, CA 92883
(951) 493-6789

by Special Guest, Dave Levinter

On a recent family outing to Wild Rivers, I had the pleasure of stopping off at what I can only call an absolute gem of a restaurant; NYPD (AKA, the New York Pizza Department). This wasn't the first time that I've had NYPD, but it was the first time I experienced it.

Let me explain. I was born and raised in Long Island, NY. In 2004, my wife and I decided to leave the hot, humid summers and bitter cold winters behind in lieu of the blue sunny skies of Southern California. We found a beautiful home in Temecula and were quite happy to raise our children there. One thing quickly became apparent though. Although we loved California, there were things that we certainly missed. At the top of the list; good New York Pizza, Bagels and Italian Ices. We remedied the last one by opening an Italian Ice shop in Murrieta, but there was no way around it. We were stuck with California pizza.

That is, until my wife stumbled upon NYPD on a trip home from Los Angeles a few months back. Then call came in that she found this pizza shop that now only served pizza by the slice(now that's a plus), but they also had Sicilian pizza. If you've never had Sicilian pizza you're certainly missing out. Its pizza where the crust is almost 2 inches thick. They also apparently made their own "New York Style" Bagels. Now, as a lifelong NY'er, I was skeptical about any place that called themselves "New York Pizza Department". They certainly had some big shoes to fill if they were going to live up to that name. Add to that the fact that they made bagels too and I was ready to chalk this up to every other "Include Everything" type of shop that I've seen out here in California. She picked up a full pie (yes, a full pizza is called a 'pie') and brought it home. Even after sitting in the car for 30 minutes it was really good. I was certainly impressed. It became a routine. Whenever my mother-in-law came down to visit from Los Angeles, she'd stop off in Corona and either pick up some slices of pizza for me or some bagels.

Fast forward to the family trip I spoke of earlier. On the way down the 15 my wife suggested we stop off at NYPD for dinner since it was getting late. My eyes lit up. Absolutely. I was already a fan of their pizza, lets stop off and see how the rest of the menu stacks up.

My first impression walking through the door was sheer joy. Yes, they did do their best to decorate the store with 'all things New York'. But it was, in my opinion, tastefully done. From the Yankee and Mets jerseys to the Broadway play signs. From the New York license plates to the Metrocards (used for the NYC Subways) on the wall. Lots of little touches that screamed HOME to me... right down to a black and white tile pattern on the floor that reminded me of my grandmother's home in the Bronx.

For the sake of full disclosure, my wife owns and operates Cool Cravings Italian Ices
(www.coolcravingsices.com) in Murrieta and we frequently get people from New York or New Jersey in that also share our fondness for NY pizza. We've taken to recommending NYPD to them and have had a number of return visits from some very happy people. So when we stopped into NYPD, Mike (the owner) was more than happy to see us. We sat down and shortly after he came out not only to greet us, but to introduce us (in typical New York fashion) to some of his "regulars" who were seated with their friends & families; all mostly ex-New Yorkers too. That spoke volumes to me. If other people who were accustomed to good pizza and Italian food kept coming back, then this has to be a good joint.

As my wife and kids looked over the menu we were greeted by a very friendly waitress and a warm tray of bread, a small bowl of butter and.... get this... a full head of garlic, drizzled with olive oil and roasted. There's no better way to eat bread than to have it warm and spread a roasted clove of garlic over it (which spreads as smooth as butter).

The dinner menu looked fantastic. I had a hard time choosing but had to go with the "Linguini with White Clam Sauce". A dish I haven't had for years and couldn't make at home with my wife's seafood allergy. When it arrived I was pleasantly surprised at the site of it. There were more clams on there than I could have fished out of the Great South Bay (a place I used to go clamming with my father in Long Island) and it smelled divine. The linguini was cooked al dente and there was no shortage of garlic in the dish. Absolutely delicious.

My wife went with the "Eggplant Rollatini" which is something she used to get often back in NY.; thinly sliced eggplant, lightly breaded and rolled with a ricotta cheese filling and then covered with mozzarella cheese, sauce and baked. Her eyes lit up when it arrived. Three good sized rolls of eggplant were somewhere under the melted cheese. I pause from my linguini just long enough to reach over for a taste. Another winner.

The kids ordered fairly ordinary dishes, as kids do. "Spaghetti & Meatball" for the boys and "Pasta with Butter" for my daughter (oh where did I go wrong with her?). The key to any pasta dish of course is the sauce and as I could tell from my wife's dish that the sauce was very good. It held true with the Spaghetti dish as well. So good in fact that it was worthy of sopping up with some bread, which surprisingly, my eldest son took to doing. The meatball I'm pleased to say was as good as my grandmother used to make and she made one heck of an Italian meatball.

While we all thoroughly enjoyed our dinners, we also wanted to keep some room left for dessert (my wife has a habit of planning her dessert before ordering her dinner). It was an easy choice for me; Cannolis. The Tiramisu was very tempting and everyone else was suggesting it, but I haven't had a good cannoli in years and was looking forward to it. My daughter ordered the NY Cheesecake and my wife, expecting to share the cheesecake with our daughter settled on the Apple Pizza (which takes a little while to make due to the handmade pizza crust). My first reaction to the cannolis was "Holy Cow". I'm sorry, but having listened to Phil Rizzuto broadcasting the Yankee games since I was a little kid always made me think of the Scooter when having cannolis and these were worth writing home about. While I personally preferred the chocolate dipped ones from Ferrara's in Little Italy, but these were darn close.

My daughter's eyes widened with her first bite into a very large slice of NY Cheesecake. It was thick and creamy and caused her to exclaim that this was THE BEST Cheesecake she's ever had. To put that in perspective, she's only 9 years old. But she has had her share of cheesecake. My wife concurred that it was yummy. My son's settled on some chocolate ice cream. By the time the Apple Pizza came out we were all really quite full especially considering the size of it. Wow. It was literally the size of a small pizza. Hot off the oven and covered with warm slices of caramel covered apples with a huge scoop of cinnamon ice cream on top. It was a dessert made for sharing. It would have been devoured quickly had we not already had our full of dinner and dessert before its arrival.

Dining in NYPD was an absolute joy. Between the delicious food and the owner's banter with his regular customer's (who had no problems answering him back) I felt right at home here. While this isn't an upscale Italian Restaurant, it certainly fits the bill as your neighborhood Pizza place with some really good New York style food. You can walk in and order Pizza or bagels as take out or sit down and relax with friendly waitress service.

With three kids, it’s not easy for my wife and me to go out to eat. Couple that with the fact that there is way too many restaurants around that are just bland chains. THIS is a place that we've already said that we'll take the drive up to Corona from Temecula at least once a month or so to enjoy. It's worth the trip.

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Outlaw Larry’s

Outlaw Larry’s
1825 Hamner Avenue
Norco, (951) 278-2771

The full story of Outlaw Larry’s reads more like the tale of a relationship gone badly than one of a restaurant striving to find its place in a changing community. Some of you may remember Texas Loosey’s, which occupied the same building for a number of years. They began to serve food back when Norco’s streets were still quaintly paved with dirt and there were only three or four other restaurants in town. Originally, it was part of a chain of Texas Loosey’s strung across
a couple of counties, with the location in Torrance being the hub, but what most people may well remember about Texas Loosey’s is the fact that the image of the establishment fit well with its name: Picture Hooters with a sultry Texas drawl… oh yeah, and chaps over bikinis… well, you get the idea.

That theme worked well in rough and ready horse country, well enough to make a name for itself as a restaurant with great food and a great… ahem, view. But times, they do change, and Norco has been enjoying an upswing in the quality of life that its neighboring communities have been endorsing for a number of years, and when a continual breakout of new housing communities spring up across what was once cow and horse property, with it usually comes young families. If anything, Texas Loosey’s in its original form was not a family restaurant.

About 10 years ago, the chaps and bikinis disappeared, perhaps because of Norco’s
transformation, but the restaurant still carried with it the reputation of a local saloon that also served food, a place where regulars sit elbow to elbow at the bar, watch the game and tap the keg dry. Eventually, the Texas Loosey’s chain, for whatever reason, went belly up, bankrupt, and all the properties were scattered in the wind to their new owners. The folks that bought the Norco Texas Loosey’s property didn’t change anything about the place, but to their fault, they relied on inexperienced managers to make inexperienced decisions that greatly affected not only the slim-to-none profit margin but its already fragile relationship with the community. Groups were asked not to come back if they wanted to split the check too many ways or if they announced that they were going to go somewhere else after dinner for a drink.

All of that came to a screeching halt four years ago when Larry Weinstein, wrote a check for the deed to Texas Loosey’s, and a new incarnation was about to begin. For starters, he didn’t change a thing. Everyone in the kitchen, keep doing what you’re doing. He began right away to mend the relationships soured by the previous regime… and he expanded the menu… and expanded the menu… and then expanded the menu some more. Larry grew up behind the counter of his father’s delicatessen, and decided that he wanted to incorporate some of those tried and true recipes at his new place. However, since he didn’t want to cut any of the items, afraid that he might dishearten a customer loyal to whatever dish he axed, he would lose business, so his menu is ever growing, currently topping the scales at over 220 items.

But what to do about the name? With Texas Loosey’s still emblazoned on the front of the building, Larry was anxious he was either turning people away because of prior stigmas of previous owners or reputation or disappointing people who were used to the old Texas Loosey’s. After three years of fretting about the name, and a lot of hand wringing, a friend suggested Outlaw Larry’s, and although he didn’t want to use his name in the title, it stuck.

That was a year ago, and since then, business has been picking up, as it slowly ditches the baggage of a bar that serves food and embraces the ideal that Outlaw Larry’s is a family-style sports bar and steakhouse.

Well, now that you know way too much about how Texas Loosey’s became Outlaw Larry’s, what can you expect when you open the front door? Frankly, it is a no-frills establishment, as all the tricks that attract less discerning eaters to other restaurants, like Friday’s or Red Robin, are in the kitchen at Outlaw Larry’s. The pizzazz is in the food. The décor is a western theme meets a diner, but it doesn’t punch you in the face at every turn (like Friday’s), and while you should expect some thematic atmosphere from a restaurant, it would be hard to spot it if you first didn’t know the name on the building. And that’s good in a way, because it focuses on the food and the conversation, the whole reason for being there.

First to arrive at the table were three soups, each one better than the one before. The chicken noodle that I first tried was typical of what I would have expected to find in a bowl of regular chicken noodle soup, but it was actually refreshing and light. The chicken wasn’t chewy, the noodles rubbery nor was the base salty. What followed was Larry’s French Onion soup, topped with a thick slathering of cheese (possibly gruyere), a complex beef broth and nicely caramelized onions. It wasn’t overpower or especially chunky, but it would have made a nice platform off of which to jump into a steak and mashed potatoes. The third soup was a special concoction that isn’t ordinarily on the menu, a sweet and sour cabbage soup from the recipe files of Larry’s grandmother, and without giving it away the details of this soup, I suggest you leave your card and ask that Larry call you when he whips up a batch because it alone is well worth the price of admission.

There was hardly any room on the table for the behemoth that arrived next, as Larry hefted out the flagship of his menu, the Larry’s Mega Combo, a heaving platter of meats from the land, sea and air: A 10-ounce tri-tip steak, a smoked chicken, half a rack of baby back ribs, two thick beef ribs, five jumbo fried shrimp and a variety of in-house-made barbecue sauces, dips, Texas red chili and Ranchero beans (you can get other side options, of course).

Best on the plate for me were the two large beef ribs, that once you picked them up by the conveniently exposed bone (the steam-injection smoking method Larry uses to cook these ribs causes the meat to shrink on the bone without losing juiciness or flavor) the meat practically falls off into your mouth. They have a strong flavor, and with the robust barbecue, packs quite a hefty punch of taste.

I’ve never really been a fan of baby back ribs. For starters I always feel slightly guilty that the word “baby” is in the name… I know. But they’re always a lot of work for what you get. Usually, the meat is sparse, meager, and they are amazingly messy. Larry’s are no different in many regards, but the flavor of the meat more than makes up for it.

The butterflied fried shrimp added a nice contrast to the red meat and chicken, which was like having a basket of bread nearby to neutralize your mouth between meat shifts. It wasn’t over breaded like some shrimp plates I’ve been subjected to, and they rely more on the zest of the shrimp in the marinara sauce than the amount of frying they were cooked with.

I felt the chicken was a little on the dry side, at least once you bit through the thickly barbecue-basted skins, but it could have been dry because it was one of the last things I tried from the combo platter. Then again, it is difficult to make fowl that doesn’t come out dry, especially when it is compared to dripping wet ribs or a juicy tri-tip and all of the complementary sauces and sides on the plate. However, I lathered it up with some extra barbecue sauce and it was good to go.

Of everything so far, the entrée I was least enthusiastic to try was the Homemade Country Fried Steak, only because they always remind me of Salisbury steak I’d find in an elementary school cafeteria. I understand that isn’t really fair to compare them in that way (or generalize), but it is the gravy smothered on top that triggers my memory. Usually, the gravy on other country fried steaks I’ve had in the past has been bland, predictable and frankly insipid. At least Outlaw Larry’s injected his with chunks of bacon and bits of sausage to break up the monotony of a creamy gravy, and it is used sparingly on top of the steak. What balanced out the experience was the mashed potatoes, presented like a little volcano holding back the gravy lava that gave the smooth and creamy potatoes a welcomed kick, tying the whole plate
together with a common flavor.

If I could eat meat and potatoes every day of my life, I doubt that I would have anything to complain about. Of course, I would probably be nearly 400 pounds doing so, but at least I wouldn’t fret over what dinner was going to be like, so when I finally cleared some space on the table in front of me to make room for the 12 ounces of Angus rib eye steak that was headed my way, I was looking forward to it. Char broiled, the steak just sagged in my plate, a welcomed sight as I could almost slice into it with the side of my fork. The well tenderized meat was no match, melting in my mouth with very little help from my teeth. If you are a steak lover, you’re missing out if you haven’t had one of these yet (they also offer it in a 20- ounce size for the truly hungry). It came with steak fries and steamed vegetables that could not possible measure up to this steak, and if it came out from the kitchen on a plate all by itself, I don’t think I would have had a problem with that because it needed nothing else…okay, maybe a dab of horseradish. Certainly my favorite.

The fact that Outlaw Larry’s still enjoys some of the trappings of its roots can be seen not only in the pages of its menu—most all of the Texas Loosey’s menu was retained—but in the spirit of the restaurant itself. It’s come a long way from chaps and bikinis to booths filled with young families, its customers can rest assured, Outlaw Larry’s is a place where you can be sure that you’ll get a good traditional steak, hand-picked at the market by Larry himself, and cooked the proper way.

And hey, if you don’t like steak, there’s 219 other items on the menu. You won’t be
disappointed.

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Urban Thai

Urban Thai
2795 Cabot Dr., #170
Corona, CA 92883

If you’re looking for authentic Thai food, imported straight from Thailand and guaranteed to scorch your taste buds, then you might be disappointed. Of course, if owner Amy Lam and her seven sibling partners—who also run an additional eight Asian-inspired restaurants up and down California—wanted a traditional Thai restaurant, they wouldn’t have named the place Urban Thai, a moniker that suggests a Thailand-oriented fare for an urban California environment.

There is a lot to be said for small restaurant owners, as their attention to detail and personality is unmatched by the larger chain restaurants in almost every way. Amy Lam was very personable and disarming the moment I walked in to the 15-table sparsely decorated but warmly inviting dining room. On the main wall is a textured wall reminiscent of a wind-swept sandy dune that gives the environment a contemporary feel. The staff is small, three servers and four in the kitchen, but the service was quick and efficient. Though open since October, former bio-chemist-turned restaurateur Lam says of Urban Thai, “Business is good but it can always be better,” which has been a motif to the other shops and stores in the Dos Lagos Promenade area: Word of its charm and spender is slowly catching on, but the crowds have been somewhat reluctant to arrive en masse like they do at Crossroads or down south at Elsinore’s outlets.

To be fair, my only exposure to Thai food had been from a completely traditional restaurant in downtown Los Angeles, and although it was a series of very interesting experiences, it is rough to admit that I enjoyed what I ate. In retrospect, my menu choice was unguided and my inexperience as a novice Thai food eater was equally shameful, so much so, that I ordered the spiciest of foods, thinking Thai spices equate to more familiar and tolerable Mexican spices. At Urban Thai, the exact opposite occurred. I left everything up to Lam and she brought to my table selections that have become popular among her more regular patrons. As far as the traditional Thai spice is concerned, that’s what makes Urban Thai unorthodox: They use less fish-based sauces and much less of the fiery spices that tend to turn people away from this soon-to-be trendy ethnic food. However, don’t be fooled into thinking that Urban Thai’s cuisines are bland as Midwestern meatloaf; thanks to their hospitality learned from the catering side of the business, each plate can be tailored to an individual’s specific needs. You want to burn your mouth and drink a lot of water? Ask for a 10. But if you like Midwestern meatloaf, ask for a one and breath easy. Me? I went the middle of the road, which is how each dish is prepared unless otherwise requested.

I started with a drink, as I always like to have a Diet Coke handy as a benchmark between selections, but Amy suggested I try something different. I’m always ready for something different, but much to my surprise, a coconut soon arrived at my table, an entire coconut, with the top carved open and a straw sticking out. Young coconut juice isn’t sweet like we would expect from processed coconut, but slightly on the sour side and unexpectedly refreshing. The little paper umbrella helped give it that toes-in-the-sand aire you would expect from having a whole coconut in your hand 40 miles from the ocean.

A two-tiered tower of Urban Thai’s Samplers appeared next. On the top tier were spring rolls and summer rolls with gold bags. The spring rolls were crispy and light, especially when dipped in the plum sauce. The summer rolls seemed to be too much lettuce and not enough cilantro, bean sprouts and shrimp, so it tasted more like a salad wrapped in thin soy paper than anything else. On the bottom level, the skewered chicken and beef satays in a bed of lettuce were a delicious appetizer, especially when dipped in the peanut and hoisin sauce… which I completely confused which appetizer goes with which dipping sauce, so I tried them all, with mixed results. The samplers serves two.

Also known as Yum Nuea (which literally means “tossed beef”, the Thaiger Beef Salad is a mix of onions, cucumber and lime chili dressing with large chunks of beef scattered on top. It was difficult not to simply pick off all the beef and leave the cucumber in the plate, especially after just having the satays, but you’d be missing out on the combination of flavors—the sour of the lime chili, the slight sweetness of the cucumbers and the kick of the onions—if you did that.

I’m not a soup eater, as it is always too much work with very little reward, but the Tom Yum Gai, characterized by its hot and sour flavors, is made from lemon grass, soy beans, ginger, straw mushrooms and baby corn and offers a hot and medium spiced grouping of zest.

If I had known that three main dishes were being prepared in the kitchen by Bill Chen and Huyo Gonzalez (from recipes perfected by Tong Ing at the Aliso Viejo restaurant) that would soon fill the table to capacity, I wouldn’t have eaten so much of the salad, soup and satays. However, when each of them arrived in quick succession, there was very little stopping me from enjoying what each unique plate had to offer.

Probably my favorite of the three was the one that was least Thai (while my least favorite was the one that was most Thai), ironically, as the Black Pepper Steak is a French-Vietnamese dish served with mushrooms, red onions and lettuce. The peppers didn’t overpower the meat, while the onions and mushrooms were a familiar addition to an otherwise interesting take on recognizable dish.

Spicy Halibuts Filets were most filling and tasted most like sweet and sour chicken you would find at a Chinese take-out, but elevating well above the rudimentary buckets of food slopped out at a typical take-out joint was the combination of the pineapple, bell peppers and onions. The halibut was lightly deep fried in a simple flour-based batter and drizzled with a sweet sauce brought out by the pineapple flavors.

The traditional Pad Thai is, no doubt, a favorite among Thai food purists, and I’m not going to say that I didn’t like it, because I did, but what I didn’t like was the traditional way of eating Pad Thai. It consists of noodles, shrimp, chicken, peanuts and bean sprouts, and the customary way of eating it is to get a little bit of each item into every bite. It all went well until I included the peanuts and that became the dominating theme. After abandoning them and sticking to just the noodles and shrimp and/or chicken, it earned that melt-in-my mouth sensation I do so enjoy.

As if I couldn’t eat another bite of anything, slid in front of me was the dessert, an overflowing plate of mango and coconut ice cream slowly melting over fried banana slices and drizzled with honey . The coconut ice cream had actual coconut shavings in it, but I felt that it clashed with the semi-tartness of the banana; whereas the mango was most certainly more agreeable. And honey just goes with everything.

There’s no question that the popularity of Thai food is on the rise, soon to replace sushi as the new and trendy place to hang out and refine your culinary culture skills. Trust me, you’ll want to be the first on your block to visit Urban Thai before it becomes too popular!

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Three Square Bistro

Three Square Bistro
140 Hidden Valley Pkwy # A
Norco, CA 92860

It can’t be stressed enough that the restaurant industry is indeed a fickle mistress, one that not only robs the budding entrepreneurs of time spent with his friends and family but all the while threatens—at every possible moment—the potential to spit them out on the street, douse the fires under their pots and close their doors forever. Sweaty palms and sleepless nights are prerequisites upon signing the lease to any building that will house a restaurant.

However, it isn’t that rare these days to find a restaurant owned by a large conglomerate that is well fortified by a wide bottom line and countless links to their chain, but what is rare is to meet a charismatic young couple with the courage and energy to stand against the odds and open a restaurant unlike any other so far in the area. To make it more of a cliffhanger, they both quit lucrative jobs to make it happen.

Meet John and Janet Lee, owners of the newly opened Three Square Bistro in Norco, and upon the first handshake it is obvious they are not only devoted to their dream but also not afraid to roll up their sleeves and take command of it. I mean, where in the restaurant world does the owner himself escort you to your table with a charming smile and a genuine welcome? And not until you spend a few minutes with them do you meet their alter egos behind the charm: two passionate, hard working and eager-to-succeed individuals with a drive only the truly diligent can muster. They’re the American Dream incarnate.

Boiled down, the Three Square Bistro story began on Christmas Day 2005 in Los Angeles, and, over dinner with Janet’s brother (operator of a sushi bar in some place called Norco), they revisited the long-standing discussion about starting a restaurant. After all, Janet was no stranger to the workings of the food service business, having been a real estate lawyer for the parent company of Panda Express, and John, all the while passionate about cooking but hardly ever having the chance (a childhood ambition was to be a chef), was growing tired of the dental supplies manufacturing industry. To them, that Christmas Day, the allure of owning their own restaurant grew to a boiling point that flashed when Janet’s brother told her that a
location was available right next door to his sushi place in Norco.

They decided to do it. “After all, we’re still young and we don’t have kids yet,” explains Janet over a mouthwatering rack of braised short ribs that I’m dying to sink my teeth into. “So why not take a chance and try it.”

The dye was cast, jobs were quit, leases signed, equipment purchased, chefs hired, menus planned and tables set. The front doors were opened in mid September 2006, but at the time they only offered two of the three squares, not adding breakfast until only a couple of weeks ago. If you were hard pressed to classify the fare, it would fit in that widely-defined arrangement called California Cuisine, but the menu is so vast and varied they have a hard time fitting it all on the pages. They offer 17 different sandwiches for lunch, for example, and those are completely different sandwiches not just variations on the ham and cheese theme: Grilled Four Cheeses, Sirloin Steak Sandwich, Pastrami Reuben…et al. Items for a classic breakfast are varied from French toast, waffles and pancakes to build-your-own omelets (with
their most popular being the crab, asparagus and mushroom omelet), and those for lunch and dinner are as varied as cheese steaks, pastrami sandwiches, jambalaya, chicken and shrimp, ribs and steaks, not to mention all of the dishes in between that you would normally expect(and a few that I wouldn’t have like the Breakfast Penne—pasta for breakfast sounds intriguing).

One detail that you’ll be hard pressed to find at another establishment is a revolving menu. John and Janet’s plan is to change about 20 percent of the menu every quarter, cycling in and out recipes and dishes with the seasons. “We want to set up a winter menu and a summer menu,” explains Executive Chef Leo Mendoza, to always offer something different for their regular customers. “People need change from their regular routine.” In addition to the innovative items on the menu, it is important to note that they make everything right on the premises. “Nothing is store bought and nothing is frozen,” John told me. From their sauces and soups to their desserts, “Everything is made in-house.”

Their location—tucked away next door to that giant “always on sale” furniture store on the south side of Hidden Valley that keeps going out of business but is forever replaced by another giant “always on sale” furniture store—unfortunately isn’t going to afford them a host of drive-by diners in search of something new to try, but so far, by simple word of mouth, they are doing a brisk business, with each month’s figures being larger than the ones previous. Inside, the décor is purposely Spartan with marble tables, ample booths, cherry wood chairs and some modestly eclectic artwork, but it doesn’t lend itself to an overpowering theme, allowing you to focus your attention on what is important: conversation with your friends and the food, which makes a big splash when it’s placed in front of you.

Speaking of which…

Put in chronological order, I started with breakfast and their widely popular Bistro Pancake, which delightfully resembled a pie shell succulently bathed in butter and powdered sugar. It is a German-style pancake, meaning that it is baked in an oven rather than fried on a skillet, and that really makes all the difference in the world to someone who has never had one before. “Traditional” pancakes are heavy as if laden down by the batter they’re whipped up from, but the Bistro Pancake is light and puffy with crisp edges that almost elevate it to that ever lofty goal of being a dessert, so much so that I hesitated in adding any syrup, allowing the pastry to stand up on its own (if you don’t think a pancake can be a pastry, you need to try
this one).

Within the blink of an eye, I was able to fast forward to lunch, and from the kitchen came two of their specialties, The Bistro Burger and the Turkey & Asparagus Melt. First to arrive is the Melt, accompanied by their very popular sweet potato fries and, most important to any fries connoisseur such as myself, a specially concocted honey butter dipping sauce sprinkled with cinnamon. Even though I would have expected that combination on a doughnut, it sparkled the flavor of the sweet potatoes and was a welcomed change to ketchup or ranch dressing for certain. The turkey was presented in four small rolls within the slices of the toasted country oat bread, and wrapped in each of those rolls was a stick of asparagus. Provolone cheese, alfalfa sprouts and tomatoes are lightly brushed with a Thousand Island dressing, and the whole thing simply falls apart in your mouth, right were it should. The flavor is light but full—all the while tasting healthy—and each element is a complement to each other, rounding out to an overall pleasing experience.

Be prepared for the Bistro Burger, as it is one of those difficult-to-eat burgers that require an extra napkin, but, don’t worry, as it is well worth the mess. The secret is not to put it down, which isn’t that hard to do. The meat itself is an oversized burger packed with Worcester sauce, ketchup, mustard and a bevy of “secret spices” that neither John nor Janet would divulge. It is loosely packed but thick, spilling over the top of the bun, and each bite seems to dissolve in your mouth. One thing: I saw no ketchup or mustard on the Three Square Bistro tables and I didn’t see anyone ask for any either; trust me, you don’t need to and you’d ruin the
hamburger if you did. Each item, especially their signature Bistro Burger, speaks for itself and doesn’t need any help from French’s or Hunt’s.

Last but not least, for me, was the best of the best, their Braised Short Ribs, clearly the flagship entrée on the menu, and because of the nearly four-hour prep time involved in fashioning these ribs, they are only offered on Friday and Saturday after 5pm (and only until supplies last…about 60 pounds worth per night). For John, this is a sentimental dish, as it is his mother’s recipe, and after you taste them, you’ll soon realize that John must have had a wonderful childhood. They are marinated all night in a special soy sauce-based mixture and braised in the oven for two hours, served with sautéed vegetables and my three favorite words: garlic mashed potatoes. In short, you taste them well before your fork reaches your mouth; the spices and sauce fill your nose as the knife slices easily through the thick meat (still on the bone…but barely). The flavors are full, heavy and deep, obviously Asian inspired with the soy sauce tang, but very American in that satisfying meat-and-potatoes hearty meal, exactly like the kind you’d find at home on a Saturday night.

What was most impressive about the various meals brought to my booth was the attention to presentation. Regardless of my opinion about what hangs on the walls or what color tiles grace the floors, there is nothing there that beats the jaw-dropping astonishment as the entrée is set down before me. Dancing elephants and stunt motorcycle riders couldn’t have commanded my attention as easily as their meals do. It was as if each plate was a mini show all to itself and performing especially for me. The bun to the burger was cocked just so to show off the tomato and basil garnishing and the ribs were fanned out on four quadrants of the plate standing sentry around the mountain of potatoes and vegetables. Even the Melt was split open and the fries were spilling out as if from a cornucopia.

I enjoy a well-cooked meal like anyone else, but the experience I had was a most welcomed change from all the other “name brand” restaurants springing up in the Empire. As evident of the Three Square Bistro, we are beginning to experience a new wave of quality eateries that are synonymous to the quaint boroughs of big cities, and I could be hard pressed to find a better way to satiate my appetite with original dishes at reasonable prices.

The Lees are delightfully confident in their undertaking at the Three Square Bistro, but realistic and grounded: “I could always go back to being a lawyer,” Janet confessed, but the look on her face was as if she just licked a lemon. I don’t think she has anything to worry about; the world has enough lawyers, but not enough Three Square Bistros.

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Backwoods BBQ

Backwoods BBQ
4300 Green River Road
Corona, CA

Did you ever throw a backyard barbeque where everything just came together perfectly? The meat was sublime, you ate it hot, and you didn't think meat could taste any better? Me neither. But Steve Nolan serves up this sought-after dream daily at Backwoods BBQ. This slightly out of the way goldmine is well worth your attention for lunch or dinner. It's not so hard to find (Green River exit off the 91), it has something for everyone, and the owner is mastering a craft that few people can.

When I first walked in, I immediately felt like Fred Flintstone when he catches a waft of an irresistible aroma in the air and begins to follow it. No matter what you order, you'll have that sensory confidence that it's going to be good. This is a casual place with some very serious Texas-Style Barbeque going on. This kind of barbeque relies heavily upon the preparation of the meat and the grilling technique. It does not find safety or forgiveness behind some thick sauce. This is where the craft comes in. These meats are perfectly marinated. The chicken is even tumbled. The fire is outside, behind the restaurant, and all meats are cooked and/or
smoked over mesquite wood. Fortunately for all, the fire pits are mobile and Backwoods can cater for events large or small. Catering is actually how the company began, and it's still a big part of what they do.

It is meat that I tell you what's good here. Your chicken won't be dry—it is arguably the most impressive chicken breast in town. I found it to be moist and tender, with a distinct mesquite barbeque flavor. It puts a swift end to dull white meat. The St. Louis Style Ribs are excellent. They're great before you add the sauce, as are the Pork Spare Ribs. The Smoked Kilbasa Sausage was one of my very favorites. My internal delicious meter (or IDM) kept taking me back for another bite between each new thing I was supposed to try. The strong, full flavor is
outstanding. It's a perfect compliment to anything else you'll order. The tender and flavorful Carne Asada is way up there, too. It's a favorite among locals for good reason. New items? Try the Carnitas. They are incredibly moist. I say they're one of the best offerings on the board.

Helping you in what could otherwise be a difficult decision, the menu mercifully offers you some BBQ combination entrees. It is not easy to visit this restaurant and have only one kind of meat. Go combo. Owner Steve Nolan takes great care to serve the right-sized cuts of meat. This principle seems to apply both to the grilling size as well as the generous serving sizes. To compliment your meats (since I told you to go combo), there are plenty of wonderful sides to choose from. You'll find potatoes, corn, beans, cole slaw, green salads and even a potato salad better than your mom's.

Backwoods BBQ has a welcome family style to it. There are video and vending games for the kids, as well as TV screens for the adults. A couple of pool tables can be found toward the back, too, if you are so inclined. Live local bands appear on Friday and Saturday nights.

The barbequed meats here are some of the best-cooked and tastiest I have ever had. What's great about this place is that you don't have to dress up, get a sitter, or buff your car with hi-gloss wax to spend an evening here. This is a place to relax and let someone else get smoke in their eyes. There's only a short wait for your food, so crack open some appetizer peanuts and, well, let the shells fall where they may.

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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City Grille

City Grille
Corona Pointe Center
1180 El Camino Road
Corona, CA

I'm still in shock. A place this good can't possibly be in my backyard. Not yet, anyway. But it is. If you've read my reviews, you probably think I don't have a harsh word in my vocabulary. Such is not the case. I can decimate with the best of them. Try calling me sometime when I'm in heavy traffic, profusely hungry, and lost. You'll hear a new and memorable spin on harsh.

See, it's not so much that I'm nice as it is that it takes a lot of "getting it right" to make our Rave Review list.

Tula Coco, and husband Sal, have ascended to great heights of flavor and presentation in local dining. Natives of Greece and Italy respectively, this duo has all the makings of creating what a place to eat should be. Both with a rich heritage and stringent standards of what they will offer and serve, Sal and Tula keep their knowing patrons happy at every visit. Watch this new Corona stand-out rise quickly. Word of mouth is a driving force after only four months.

City Grille has some of the best things you might expect from a wise Greek and a passionate Italian. Unbelievable fish. Flawless pasta. Recipes and quality ingredients that pass a hard test. There are great wines and impressive dessert wines. If you want to get on someone's good side, take them here for a spectacular dinner in a beautiful setting. This place is high on atmosphere and décor. The patio is another thing they did right. It's beautiful and ready for all seasons. Live music heightens the weekend experience here. You will also want to watch for
featured theme nights soon to be on the calendar.

Tula's Greek salad is by far the best I have ever had. Not the best in Corona, or California, but simply the best Greek salad I think you will find if you live to be old, well-traveled, and hard to please. (Is this the part where I tell you I have been to Greece and I never had a salad so good?) The signature dressing is full of what must be termed pure zing. It will do more for your mouth and your day than the best energy drink on the planet. It will also taste much better. The dressing shares the bowl with wonderful greens, Kalamata olives, feta, and candied walnuts, among other things. There is variety and perfect little surprises in every bite.

Some emerging favorites at City Grille—and there are many—should go on your list. This includes anything they serve at breakfast, the afore-mentioned salad, Kobe beef burgers at lunch, and the Chicken Parmesan or Greek style rack of lamb at dinner. You will not soon forget the potato-wrapped halibut with its almond pesto sauce. That fish and I are going to go pick out some furniture. I might also add that their onion rings are becoming legendary.

If I sound all over the place between formal and casual dining, it's because the menu is brilliant enough to have a wide variety no matter what time of day you go. There are also welcome twists on everything. For example, the French toast they serve is stuffed, one of the nine offered salads is a steak and potato, and well, have you ever had calamari with a crispy graham cracker crust? The list goes on.

Take advantage of a delicious perk of this place—the breakfast. They are serious about it. All your favorites, along with a few surprises. Lunch? They've got you covered. The owners know their town and their patrons. You can catch a great sandwich, a quick salad, even fish tacos. They don't try to be quite everything, but it seems they can pull of anything, and pull it off well.

City Grille is a family business in every sense of the word and this is one talented family. If you join those who have discovered it already, you may soon follow suit and become a regular.

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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Miguel's Restaurant

Miguel's
1920 Frontage Road
Corona, CA 92882

If you continually frequent your favorite haunts only to satisfy your tried and true "hankerings" at each place, you miss out on huge new discoveries. I have long enjoyed Miguel's, but the luxury of being a food critic is that restaurant owners will always serve you those dishes which set them apart from others as well as dishes you don't yet realize are about to become your new favorites. After some charitable and energetic menu guidance by the friendly and accommodating Ramiro Rivas, director of operations for Miguel's, I confess I have new favorites.

New vocabulary word: Mulita. Get it as one of your appetizers and you'll wonder where this thing has been all your life. The Mulita is a Mexican sandwich served piping hot and quartered. It has crispy cheddar cheese on the outside of a tortilla and melted cheese and carne asada on the inside. It is bang-on-the-table good.

The spicy shrimp cocktail is another refreshing opener where very tasty prawns are served in a sauce that has a nice thin consistency. The sauce is more like a juice and has a great blend of spice, tomato, and a hint of fruit. This is a great place for shrimp. Miguel's goes only for the good stuff when they buy, and the seafood is no exception. The entrees that feature Icelandic cod are also not to be missed.

There's presentational prowess in the Chile Rellano as well as a knock-out flavor sensation. There's a perfect trio of cheeses used (ranchero, jack and cheddar), and the large chile is generously stuffed.

I have a real weakness for Carnitas and always figured they had to be fatty to be good. Miguel's delivers a great surprise here. The carnitas are lean, generous slices of pork; amazingly tender and flavorful--without the fat.

If there's one thing I normally skip in Mexican food, it's Flautas. That all changes here. What are often dry, thin, flavorless pipe cleaners elsewhere is a whole new event at Miguel's. If you put your thumb and index finger together and make that "a-okay" hand gesture (use that only in our country by the way), that is about how big the inside filling is in the flautas. They are also about a foot-long flute. Generous. Choose shredded chicken or beef. These flautas will melt in your mouth. They are served rolled up in the legendary flour tortillas, crisped, and
rendered completely irresistible. Miguel's knows how to listen to its loyal patron base, too. After serving the flautas long enough by special request---wet style with sauce on the top, like an enchilada—the item eventually made it to the menu.

Among Miguel's Specialties, you will want to try the Mole De Maria sooner rather than later. Life is short. Eat this dish. There are twenty-four ingredients in this puebla mole (pronounced MOH lay) sauce. This is a thick, slowly simmered sauce that only Maria, the owner, makes. This is a dish that is very hard to find in Mexican dining. There is nothing fast about it. It requires patience, time and a great family recipe. Tender chicken is covered in this thick, deeply flavored sauce whose full-bodied taste is hard to describe. Let's just say I'd rub it in my hair, if
I had any.

What you want to know about this place, if you don't already, is how personalized they make your experience. I have always noticed how the management circulates the floor and pays nice attention to first-timers. On top of that, the food more than backs them up. Miguel's places tremendous importance on high quality ingredients and on family recipes made from scratch. Try imagining they make their fresh beans twice daily and their rice three times a day. Even the dessert flan is made daily from scratch. If you order something and they say they're out, they're out!

How fresh is fresh? The cheeses come delivered with the wax still on. That's fresh. Miguel's invests in the quality factor right up front. The meats are choice grade or better. Lean cuts of pork, premium seafood’s and aged beef will have you noticing the quality in everything you order. This kitchen doesn't have microwaves, and just about the only thing you'd find frozen if you saw the freezer would be, um, the ice cream. There really are no compromises here, right down to the exclusive use of hass avocados. In a true example of getting what you pay for, Miguel's is all that.

Miguel's boasts a full service cantina including an extensive selection of premium tequilas. Taking great pride in their margaritas and other offerings, you will find one big difference in the 100% Blue Agave tequila.

Original owners (since 1973), Mike and Maria and the entire Vasquez family have something very distinctive here. If you're new to town, come and discover. If you've been going to Miguel's for years, branch out a little. Come say no to combination platters and live the good life.

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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Zip Fusion Sushi

Zip Fusion Sushi
2560 Tuscany Street
Corona, CA

Fatherly wisdom and three generations of restaurateurs have helped create what could quite possibly be Corona’s best place to eat.

At the center of it all is Mr. Jason Ha, whose contagious energy and passion for food and life makes him a rising star to catch. In the true spirit of entrepreneurship, he has hit the Southern California restaurant scene with an aggressive splash. He’s being blessed with deserved success.

Having a Korean father, a Japanese mother, and a family that is all about food, this welcome resident has been able to create some seriously good fusion. Therein lies perhaps the greatest nugget of wisdom. When asking his father for advice about whether to go Japanese or Korean with the restaurant, Jason was told, “Son, the world is changing…change with it.” The result: Zip Fusion was born.

With two locations in L.A. already, Corona is the lucky recipient of the third. A key member of this team is Chef Sean. His refreshing cuisine is artful and original. Chef Sean’s creations will make your experience at Zip Fusion an event you will not soon forget.

I had the luxury of trying a good percentage of the menu at Zip, so I will pass along the highlights. Had I not been to this place under such favorable circumstances, I may very well have gone in only for a routine sushi fix. Whenever possible, I recommend going with a party of 4 to 6 people, as this is really a place to share food family-style.

The Seaweed Salad is so good it has won awards. It will win you over with its 3 types of seaweed, its spot-on marinade, and these marvelous little crunchy elements thrown in. This is a colorful dish and the perfect starter (and you know how amazingly healthy seaweed is for you).

Zip’s Calamari is very tender with a hint of sweet and a bigger hint of spicy. It’s just right. The Jalapeño Tuna Tempura with a crunch and a zing in the same bite was a welcome temptation. I doubt you’ve had Shrimp Ravioli before, but you can have it here and it’s one of the perfect hot dishes to have at your table. The nice white sauce doesn’t go overly rich.

Unforgettable was Zip’s Alba-Cado. This very 3D presentational ball of nirvana looks like some green vegetable that grows on an exotic tree on another planet. Thinly sliced avocado makes up the outer layer and spicy albacore tuna is found inside. I don’t know how they make it and I don’t want to know how they make it, but I know that I’d like to have it on a weekly basis. It’s the perfect side dish to split among a few people.

One of my favorites of the night was a seemingly simple plate of Broiled Short Ribs. They are served piping hot and pull off an amazing tenderness. The flavor is full and sweet and that’s thanks to a marinade of Asian pear, kiwi, and soy sauce.

You’ll want to just stare at the aesthetic fusion rolls, such as the Whiskey & Soda Back (named more for the influential tools that helped out the night they invented the dish, than what is actually in this dish), but the rolls taste as good as they look.

There’s the delicious Asparagus Bacon and there are Sizzling Platters that come in Beef, Pork or Chicken for the “non-fishies” in your party.

Sushi lovers will be completely pleased with the sushi and sashimi found at Zip. Just don’t miss the boat when it comes to amazing salads, appetizers, noodle dishes, and hot entrees to be found under the same roof.

To accompany your meal, you can always have Sake for the sake of having Sake, but you may find yourself having traditional Korean Soju. Zip makes several signature cocktails with Soju, which is quickly gaining popularity in the U.S.

Plan a large party here and they will customize a perfect combination menu that is very reasonable per head.

The wisely-used space at Zip includes a dynamic layout. There is a quiet, intimate section up front, a more social open section in the middle, and a large back room—very Zen—with an ambience somewhere in between. There is patio dining, and of course, there is a sushi bar to which you can belly up.

As for the name, “Zip” means “home” in Korean. I’ve decided that “Don’t take that plate away yet” is English for “I really, really like it”.

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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Lone Star Steakhouse & Saloon

Lone Star Steakhouse & Saloon
955 Montecito Drive
Corona, CA 92879

It must be the protein that generates the fervor which has me confessing that I recently had my carnivorous lobe satiated. If the average American consumed over 51 pounds of beef last year (and 37% of all statistics are made up), I didn’t want to be outdone. Fortunately, I reached toward fulfillment of my own personal quota at Corona’s Lone Star Steakhouse.

You can see it from the 15 and you can see it from the 91, but take my advice and see it from the inside. Steadfast food snobs like me usually assume that chains or franchise corporations are going to be factory food let-downs. But Lone Star delivers quality food and an above-average experience. Saddle up and ride.

The brief on the beef is that it’s grain-fed and aged for 21 days. It’s the good stuff. Assessing the menu and being fully aware that life is short, I signed up for the Five-Star Filet Mignon. It was a tender steak with a very good, full flavor. Someone remind me to wrap more things in bacon.

Big, hot, Texas-sized rolls arrive at your table after you order. They are soft and delicious and bigger than your fist. You know an excellent roll by how good it is without or before the butter. These rolls are great. Try not to fill up on them (four could make a pillow). When ordering your sides, you absolutely must order the runaway favorite, the baked sweet potato. Venture here and you’ll see that it comes equipped with cinnamon sugar and butter. Sounds simple enough, but the knock-out flavor combination on its own as well as with your entrée is hard to describe.
Trust me and get it. Our enlightened server told us it would even fill our “dessert spot” during dinner. She was right. I hate missing dessert, but I’m still grateful to her. Now that several days have passed, I want another one.

I counted at least seven different cuts of steak on Lone Star’s menu. But there is much more than beef. Rib lovers will enjoy good baby back pork ribs at Lone Star. So you know, they are tender, but not falling off the bone. Seafood lovers will find lobster, crab legs, shrimp or salmon. There are soups and there is even homemade chili. For people that wish to have no meat of any kind (but who are still taking up space at your table), I can recommend the great salads and pasta.

Finally, I must applaud the service ethic at Lone Star. Having been a food server not so many years ago, I am impressed with the restaurant’s insistence that no server has more than a three-table station. The smallest stations I ever covered always had four. Utter mayhem occurs far less often with smaller stations. This concept has the diner in mind. Another welcome rarity is the chance that if you happen upon Lone Star at a popular hour with a wait time or line, you might find yourself being served complimentary appetizers. Now THAT is what I call civilized.

Owner Gregg Rotcher has struck a formula for restaurant success and it shows. Tarry to Corona Pointe off Magnolia and the 15 and see what it is that makes Lone Star, well, stellar.

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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Rodrigo’s Mexican Grill

Rodrigo’s Mexican Grill
150 W Parkridge Avenue
Corona, CA 92880

What local find has good food, tropical landscaping, covered and uncovered patio seating, a giant outdoor fire pit, and is ready for a party at all times of the year? If you guessed Rodrigo’s Mexican Grill, you’ve either been there or I need to shroud my headlines in a little more mystique.

The amazing indoor-outdoor patio cantina gets first mention because this place has an outstanding ambience for a pleasant dinner for two, right up to a party for over 100 guests. Romantic lights at night and live music (Thurs – Sat) make for a great outing without sitting in any traffic to get someplace “destinational”. The indoor dining does not disappoint, either. The spacious dining areas are very comfortable and Rodrigo’s can accommodate large private banquets for any event where more rigid climate control is preferred.

I have a very simple test whenever I try a Mexican restaurant. The most basic of basics--the cheese enchilada--has to be good. It’s hard to botch that simple offering, yet also hard to get it right. Rodrigo’s nails it. They pass with flying colors. Why this test? For starters, the cheese enchilada is, for me, the comfort food of Mexican cuisine. That won’t make any sense to you, so let’s just move on. What the “cheese enchilada test” will do is tell you if the restaurant can
make a good sauce, whether or not they have fresh tortillas, and if they use a quality cheese. Now right there, you knock out three of the big burning questions that tell you if you are coming back for the food. (Are you beginning to see just how useful this review is to you?) With Mexican food, you really have to pass the compulsories. The rest will take care of itself.

There are additional factors that set Rodrigo’s apart from many peers. They make their own homemade salsa daily. It’s delicious. They even fry their own chips. Rodrigo’s gets extra points for having chips that are served warm and are not greasy or overly-salted. Rounding out the homemade category, you’ll want to try a fresh pork-stuffed tamale. Fish taco lovers can swim in the satisfaction that the fish here is grilled, not fried. Creative salads, sizzling fajitas, and pork
carnitas are other favorites you’ll find when you come. Prices are quite reasonable. Most dinner entrees are below $15, and the convenient express lunch menu on weekdays is under $8.

Conveniently located just off Main Street, the restaurant is mere yards from the Norco border. (I thought it would be cool to talk about a Mexican restaurant and fit the word “border” in there somewhere). Good news for Temecula, too: Rodrigo’s opens a second location there soon.

Put Rodrigo’s on your list for a near-future lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch. Owner Rod Fraser and his amiable staff have a good thing going. You’ll find good servers who will take great care of you (I said I was going to review the place, and they totally fell for it).

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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Rosine’s Mediterranean Rotisserie and Grill

Rosine’s Mediterranean Rotisserie and Grill
2670 Tuscany Road Suite # 101
Corona, CA 92883

My Orange County friend likes to call me a 909-er. Never mind that I have become a 951-er.

The 909-er term is employed to tell me that I live in a veritable inland desert with a dearth of culture, variety, and noteworthy establishments. Thanks to the arrival of Rosine’s in Corona, I’m armed with more ammunition and I can debunk such assaults.

If you frequent The Crossings in Corona as often as my family does, you’ve noticed the budding hot spots popping up all around the Edward’s Cinema nucleus. My first rush of excitement with regard to Rosine’s was well before I knew anything about the place. I saw the word “Mediterranean” go up one day and I was immediately onboard. “Oh, just let it be good”, I told
my wife.

We went. We ate. It’s great.

To go there for your first time is to know that we are welcoming a long term lunch and dinner fixture to our fair city. Rosine’s may be new to us, but its first and still thriving location is a tried and true favorite in Anaheim Hills. Owner, Hagop Najarian--and Mom, Rosine--are skilled veterans at serving up a fresh and homemade experience in Eastern Mediterranean cuisine

You’ll find just the right-sized menu here. There’s enough variety to keep you engaged each time you come, but a confident conciseness which tells you that the family recipes are going to stand on their own merit. They do.

Appetizers are a very important part of Mediterranean cuisine and I recommend you not skip them. The stuffed grape leaves are made fresh daily on the premises. The hummus is mild and pleasant. The Baba Ghannouj (eggplant-based, for all you 909-ers) has a subtle flavor followed by a hint of spiciness that kicks in as you savor the bite. I think it was my favorite of the appetizers. Can you say you’ve ever had Walnut Caviar? I can (neener-neener), and it’s good. Don’t forget to try a boreg. That’s right, I said a boreg. A boreg is a piping hot, crispy pastry shell filled with minced beef or herbed cheese. They will have you singing.

Our server approached us for the entrees. “I’ll have the lamb,” I said sheepishly. Alright, forgive me; it didn’t go that way at all. But still, let’s do talk kebabs. You’ll find lamb, chicken, beef tenderloin, shrimp, halibut, vegetable and more. The kebabs come with vegetables, rice or wheat pilaf or garlic mashed potatoes. Incidentally, all of the side dishes at Rosine’s are outstanding.

Whatever you order, don’t pass up Rosine’s famous garlic sauce. It’s a secret and signature condiment that will compliment anything under sun. It’s smooth and mild. It’s so popular that the long-time patrons in Anaheim Hills have learned to buy several take home ramekins of the stuff each time they come in to dine! If you insist on having the first-timer’s cheat-sheet, then I say have at least the chicken kebab. Dip that wonderfully marinated and tender chicken in the cayennaise sauce (because I already know you’ll dip it in the garlic sauce). Besides the kebabs,
you’ll find other great entrees as well. The rotisserie half chicken is a popular favorite. It’s no misprint when I tell you it’s under 10 bucks.

There is not one good reason to skip dessert here because this thoughtful kitchen boasts pastry chefs who make the real thing daily. This place is your new short trip to out-of-this-world Baklava!

The convenient lunchtime menu offers a great variety, and any kebab can be made into a pita pocket sandwich. Salad lovers will find several great choices as well.

Is Rosine’s too exotic for your kids? Not remotely. The savvy staff knows exactly what to do. Tender chicken with mashed potatoes is a good bet among the choices. It will be a treat for the kids and you can feel great about the fresh kitchen out of which it will come!

Connoisseurs of wine will benefit from the fact that owner, Hagop Najarian, along with general manager, Jerry Grady, are both world-traveled wine connoisseurs themselves. You will see the wine choices here expand with time, but it is already quite impressive. Selections already include red wines from Lebanon, the North Coast, Napa Valley, Spain and Tuscany. Offerings from France, Australia, Germany and Oregon add to the diverse selection of white wines. You’ll appreciate the high quality spirits found at the bar at Rosine’s. You’ll even find fruit-infused
Belgian beers.

The next time you dine at The Crossings, remember friendly Rosine’s. As you pass the
production eateries to your right and left, keep in mind that for a comparable price and a casual dining atmosphere, you have a stellar option for a quality meal. Treat yourself to fresh family recipes where “mom” still oversees her kitchen. The five word review, had you been so lucky: “Good thing I live close.”

Ryan Keane writes exclusively for MyCityCorona.com

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